He got it —which is so rare these days—and put it all down on paper and tape, and in pixels and video. The cheesesteak? Center City? Sure, for a little while. But then Fishtown and East Passyunk and, you know, elsewhere….
They talked to people—lots of people—and investigated what was great about Philly. What was special about it. I pay attention to restaurants, reviews, and industry-wide reportage — particularly in Washington, DC, where I work.
New, noteworthy restaurants are a dime-a-dozen these days. Look at Bresca , a high-concept space that opened earlier this year on 14th Street. This year Bresca picked up one Michelin star. Sietsema has presided over this explosion, wielding enough power and sway to be considered one of the most influential restaurant critics in the country — and, especially in DC, one of the most well respected.
When he pens reviews, we listen. I may not agree with his infamous take down of local eatery Founding Farmers unadventurous eaters need a place to eat, too , but I often find his criticisms deft and well-reasoned. One any city would love to have as an arbiter of its dining scene. I encourage you to read it. As someone who works in the industry, she writes from a learned position. And though the specific questions she asks of him are different, her overarching issue with Sietsema is clearly a willful ignorance or disinterest in exploring the ways the industry is changing, and how that might affect the end product.
She writes:. Without providing full context about timely, relevant, impactful issues facing the restaurant industry in DC, your reviews fail at telling the full story. And that leaves a bad taste in my mouth. Taking her post at face value, she misreads the scope of criticism as a form of writing. I do agree with Cox that labor shortages , cultures of sexual harassment and assault , and addiction rates are real problems in restaurants — particularly in DC.
Filed under: Week in Reviews. Pocket Flipboard Email. The Salt Line in Navy Yard. More From Eater DC. Sign up for the newsletter Eater DC Sign up for our newsletter. Thanks for signing up! He writes: "But that time-tested theory went out the window with the first taste of a crisp-skinned duck, fragrant from a spice rub that included lavender, and wild king salmon that not only reflected good shopping but that any chef in Seattle would have been proud to call his own.
He writes: "Another winning tortelloni-like pasta, casunziei, includes raviolis stuffed with beef, Swiss chard and speck, with raisins adding the right touch of sugar.
Taglierini neri, fine strings of tangled pasta tinged with squid ink, serve as a nest for tiny cubes of raw tuna He writes: "The kitchen prepares its own sauces, one a tangy, spicy mixture the color of a postcard sunset. Three items from the tuna bar were disappointing, including a tempura-crusted tuna roll that left the fish mealy and unappealing. More From Eater DC. Sign up for the newsletter Eater DC Sign up for our newsletter. Thanks for signing up!
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